Early winter challenges

Early season Spearhead: Scoping the route up Decker Glacier

Winter has arrived, but sadly with little snow in the Coast Range. Rocks are littered throughout the resorts snatching chunks of P-Tex from unsuspecting skiers. Alpine bowls are a minefield of boulders and glaciers have open crevasses that could swallow a school bus. Lack of powder aside, backcountry travel is quite hazardous right now. A recent cold snap has weakened buried layers in the snowpack and deadly terrain traps loom constantly.

But there's always a silver lining. Training for Tajikistan is in full swing with all members touring big days every week, even with the limited terrain available. With Emelie in Whistler for a her CAA Level 2 course exams, the three of us ventured out in the Spearhead Range to negotiate said hazards.

Blackcomb's current boundary gate at the top of Jersey Cream chair

Warning signage at the top of Horstman T-Bar

We couldn't have asked for more ideal training conditions. High winds and pocket flurries blew over to  reveal the crevasse-ridden glaciers on Decker Glacier. During September's training trip we practiced pulling each other out of crevasses, this time we would practice travelling around them.

After a lengthy approach to the Blackcomb Glacier gate we were finally in Garibaldi Park. Clouds surrounded us but we were able to descend out of the isolated flurry, we could even see the sun poking through.
The Spearhead currently has some of the thinnest coverage I have ever seen in eight years of touring in the range. A blue ice sheet is currently exposed at the foot of Tremor Glacier and there are more open crevasses than I ever knew existed. We almost had to scramble over exposed rock on the ridges.

The toe of Tremor Glacier looking thin

During lunch Emelie dug a quick pit to observe some of the heavy faceting that's been going on in the snowpack, we agreed that crevasses were more of a hazard than avalanche on this slope, so out the ropes came. Travelling up a skin track roped up took some getting used to, but we soon had the system dialed of pausing while the person behind negotiated each switchback. We also learned that when skiing downhill, even short distances, you have to unclip from each other on the rope. Not doing so can put the entire group in danger in the event of a fall.

Quick snowpit before the ascending the slope 

Emelie probing the edge of a crevasse, rope taut

December doesn't have a lot of daylight, but we were able to get in a full day of touring to go over some trip plans, learn some new skills and ski some very awful snow. Breakable crust greeted us on the ski off Decker. Frustrating snow, but if you can ski that crap, you can ski anything. 

We're all hoping the season is going turn around next month, but until then we'll keep training in the challenging conditions that we have.

We're also excited to announce that MEC are now supporting Flow of the Fedchenko with a cash grant and some gear sponsorship. Visa and permit applications were sent off this week to the Tajik embassy and we eagerly await the response.

VS

Fall training in the Bugaboos

Holly and Emelie at the base of  Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Provincial Park

As our team slowly works our way through seemingly endless to-do lists, earlier this month we managed get out and spend some time in the field together. As Emelie is based in Revelstoke, getting together for trips has proved more difficult than we originally thought. Everyone will be busy in December and we are hoping to get some time on snow together in in the early season, but we needed a trip to happen in the fall to go over the basics.
Everyone has had some climbing experience and has spent time walking on glaciers, but roping up and travelling as one group was exactly what we needed. Keep the rope taught when navigating crevasses, call to stop if you have to adjust your crampons or tie your bootlaces, communicate clearly when belaying or rappelling.
All the little things.
After a mostly uneventful drive from Whistler to Revelstoke, Holly and I pulled  in to Emelie's place at around 10 p.m. After considering all the gear that we were going to need, we left some climbing hardware behind but with food, clothing and gear for up to five days, our packs were still ridiculously heavy. Even though we intend to pull majority of our load in the Pamirs on sleds, it was worth seeing how we would all handle carrying full expedition packs from the car park of Bugaboos Provincial Park all the way to the Applebee campsite. The hike took about three hours with a few breaks.

Rocks, logs and chicken wire keep the rubber-eating porcupines from chewing through your tires and brake lines

We called in at the ACC Conrad Kain Hut to grab some stove fuel that Emelie had stockpiled earlier that week before the last leg up to the campsite. The weather was holding and we wanted a good night's sleep for a full day in the alpine the next day.

Fine weather for the hike in

Applebee campsite, Bugaboo Provincial Park

Rising at dawn with a quick breakfast of oatmeal and coffee, we geared up and began the hike to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col, one of the most popular routes to access dozens of alpine climbing options. Conditions weren't the best, we had to skirt a bergschrund and briefly scrambled up on blue ice, all while watching for rockfall. Once on the Upper Vowell Glacier we had a routine approach towards Pigeon Spire. Once on rock we left our crampons and ice axes and began the scramble towards the summit.
The weather was approaching and even though we were easily able to grab the summit, we knew it would be safer to turn around. That decision can be a difficult one when summits, couloirs and powder are calling, but it's also a decision that we need to get used to when traveling at high altitude.

Emelie leads Holly on the Pigeon Spire

Descending the Upper Vowell Glacier, we decided to take the Icefall Rappel route to get some practice descending on ropes. The rain came in the final hour before making it back to camp but we managed to stay mostly dry with good shell layering.
The next morning there was a mass exodus from the campsite, the incoming rain prompting all the climbers to pull out. But we weren't done yet, we needed a solid day of crevasse rescue training before we could head back to civilization. The sun was out for the first hours of the morning as we hiked past the Conrad Kain Hut towards the Fork-Bugaboo Glacier. Much of the foot of the glacier was bare ice, good practice for careful steps and tool placement. Crevasses littered the glacier and after finding a suitable one for rescue drills we took turns getting lowered in while the other members practiced pulley systems.

The five-pitch Icefall Rappel

Careful steps on the icy slopes of the Fork-Bugaboo Glacier

The thunder cracked suddenly, we quickly packed up and bee-lined it off the glacier. We were about a third of the way through the boulder fields when the torrential downpour hit us. We took refuge in the very comfortable Conrad Kain Hut, the occupying ACC members happily letting dry out our gear and cooking dinner before heading back to our tents for the night.
Though the storm passed, the overnight rain was already beginning to dampen spirits. We made it through three of our five planned nights in the Bugaboos; hiked with heavy packs, got in a full day of climbing and glacier travel and had proper field session on crevasse rescue. The weather was only getting worse so we made the call to pull out the next morning. The rain drenched us again on the way out but we all had dry clothes waiting in the car.
Fall field training was complete. See you when the snow flies.

VS

Welcome to our journey

Winter is in the air. As the first snowflakes fall in the alpine we begin preparation for what may be the biggest trip of our lives. In May 2014, ski mountaineer Holly Walker, ski guide Emelie Stenberg and photojournalist Vince Shuley will travel to Central Asia to cross the fabled Fedchenko Glacier on skis. Situated in the Gorno-Bardakhshan province of Tajikistan, the Fedchenko stretches 77 kilometers across the Pamir Mountains and is the main water source for millions of people in Central Asia.
Our party will be entirely self-propelled and unsupported from when we set foot on the glacier until we step off it. Along the way we intend to explore the many peaks of the Pamirs by setting up base camp and ski touring the surrounding areas, which will all be documented by Vince.
This blog has been created to document our preparations for the Fedchenko including expedition training, gear testing and sponsorship. We are proud to announce that Emelie was selected as recipient of the 2013 Alpine Club of Canada Jen Higgins Fund, which is giving the trip an excellent kick start as we apply for additional grants this fall and continue our preparations.

Thanks for stopping by and we hope to see you back here as we bring you more updates!

VS

Holly, Emelie and Vince soaked to the bone after fall alpine climbing in the Bugaboos